Whilst today's famous Lions of the Pyrenees led by the legendary Antonio Irastorza are
unquestionably the best-known and most intrepid explorers of the region, it must be
acknowledged that there have been other notable figures in the past. This extensive range of
challenging terrain on both the French and the Spanish sides was of particular interest to British
explorers and mountaineers in the 19th and the early 20th centuries. The Alpine Club had been
formed in London in 1857 and sparked an explosion of enthusiasm for adventuring, not only in
the Alps themselves but also concurrently in the Pyrenees, and beyond, by a variety of British
sportsman, poets, authors, botanists, biologists and others.
The most celebrated, and certainly the most eccentric, was Henry Russell (more formally Henry
Patrick Marie, Count Russell-Killough), the son of an Irish father and a French mother. After a
great deal of adventuring over a hectic three-year period to many far-flung parts of the globe
he settled down in 1861 to devote the remainder of his life to the Pyrenees, making numerous
first ascents, many on his own. This interest had first been kindled, it seems, in 1858 when at
the age of 24 he climbed Pic de Néouvielle on the French side, then the Ardiden, followed by
three ascents of Monte Perdido. He became especially known for his ascents (33 in total) of
the Vignemale which he fell in love with - to the point where he referred to it as his 'wife'. He
requested from the prefect of the Hautes-Pyrénées, and was granted, a concession over some
200 hectares of the mountain between 2,300m and 3,300m in altitude at a rent of 1 franc per
annum for a term of 99 years. He thereafter styled himself as the 'Comte des Monts'. Over
time he cut no fewer than seven substantial caves into the solid rock of the mountain at various
levels and used to stay in them and hold sumptuous and banquets there with princes and
other notables as guests. He referred to these caves as his seven 'children' and celebrated
his 'silver wedding' (i.e. 60 years from his first ascent) in his last-built cave, Le Paradis, located
18 metres below the summit. The Pic Russell in the Maladeta massif is named after him. For
those who are interested, more details are to be found in a book entitled 'The Man who married
a Mountain' by Rosemary Bailey.
Noted contemporaries and climbing companions of Henry Russell who eulogized the Pyrenees
for the multifarious joys they offer were Charles Packe, a lawyer and great 19th century explorer
who climbed every mountain in the Pyrenees and published in 1867 'A Guide to the Pyrenees',
and Farnham Maxwell-Lyte, a chemical and mining engineer and the pioneer of a number of
techniques in photographic processing who is known for his views of the French Pyrenees in
particular. Other notables of the time were Douglas Freshfield, a famous climber of the day
(and a scion of the family that founded the eponymous London-based law firm), Edward Harold
Spender, a novelist and journalist and father of the poet Stephen Spender, ('Through the High
Pyrenees' (1898)), the writer and historian Hilaire Belloc ('The Pyrenees' (1909)), the poet
Alfred, Lord Tennyson, and the philosopher John Stuart Mill (who asserted that his ascent of the
Pic du Midi had 'changed my life').
Another celebrated figure was Richard Spruce, one of the great botanical explorers of the age
who, before going on to greater things scientifically, conducted a collecting trip in the Pyrenees
in 1845-6. He recorded that 'My delicate health and retiring disposition have combined with my
love of botanical pursuits to render me fond of solitary study and I must confess that I feel a sort
of shrinking at the idea of engaging in the turmoil of active life.'. Collecting in the Pyrenees must
have been something of a hardship to him (and the last-mentioned sentiment is one that certain
of the more elderly Lions can sympathize with!).
One of the best-known and most prolific 20th century writers on mountaineering themes was
Showell Styles (1908 - 2005) the Welsh author, mountaineer and explorer who published over
160 books, many about climbing in various regions, including 'Backpacking in the Alps and the
Pyrenees'.
These fascinating figures are but a small selection and many others can be read about in such
publications as Rosemary Bailey's book referenced above, her latest book 'Love and War in the
Pyrenees' and 'Mountaineering in the Pyrenees – a Collection of Historical Climbing Articles'
published by the Wellhausen Press.
