By Neil Bogle
Whilst today's famous Lions of the Pyrenees led by the legendary Antonio Irastorza are
unquestionably the best-known and most intrepid explorers of the region, it must be
acknowledged that there have been other notable figures in the past. This extensive range of
challenging terrain on both the French and the Spanish sides was of particular interest to British
explorers and mountaineers in the 19th and the early 20th centuries. The Alpine Club had been
formed in London in 1857 and sparked an explosion of enthusiasm for adventuring, not only in
the Alps themselves but also concurrently in the Pyrenees, and beyond, by a variety of British
sportsman, poets, authors, botanists, biologists and others.
The most celebrated, and certainly the most eccentric, was Henry Russell (more formally Henry
Patrick Marie, Count Russell-Killough), the son of an Irish father and a French mother. After a
great deal of adventuring over a hectic three-year period to many far-flung parts of the globe
he settled down in 1861 to devote the remainder of his life to the Pyrenees, making numerous
first ascents, many on his own. This interest had first been kindled, it seems, in 1858 when at
the age of 24 he climbed Pic de Néouvielle on the French side, then the Ardiden, followed by
three ascents of Monte Perdido. He became especially known for his ascents (33 in total) of
the Vignemale which he fell in love with - to the point where he referred to it as his 'wife'. He
requested from the prefect of the Hautes-Pyrénées, and was granted, a concession over some
200 hectares of the mountain between 2,300m and 3,300m in altitude at a rent of 1 franc per
annum for a term of 99 years. He thereafter styled himself as the 'Comte des Monts'. Over
time he cut no fewer than seven substantial caves into the solid rock of the mountain at various
levels and used to stay in them and hold sumptuous and banquets there with princes and
other notables as guests. He referred to these caves as his seven 'children' and celebrated
his 'silver wedding' (i.e. 60 years from his first ascent) in his last-built cave, Le Paradis, located
18 metres below the summit. The Pic Russell in the Maladeta massif is named after him. For
those who are interested, more details are to be found in a book entitled 'The Man who married
a Mountain' by Rosemary Bailey.
Noted contemporaries and climbing companions of Henry Russell who eulogized the Pyrenees
for the multifarious joys they offer were Charles Packe, a lawyer and great 19th century explorer
who climbed every mountain in the Pyrenees and published in 1867 'A Guide to the Pyrenees',
and Farnham Maxwell-Lyte, a chemical and mining engineer and the pioneer of a number of
techniques in photographic processing who is known for his views of the French Pyrenees in
particular. Other notables of the time were Douglas Freshfield, a famous climber of the day
(and a scion of the family that founded the eponymous London-based law firm), Edward Harold
Spender, a novelist and journalist and father of the poet Stephen Spender, ('Through the High
Pyrenees' (1898)), the writer and historian Hilaire Belloc ('The Pyrenees' (1909)), the poet
Alfred, Lord Tennyson, and the philosopher John Stuart Mill (who asserted that his ascent of the
Pic du Midi had 'changed my life').
Another celebrated figure was Richard Spruce, one of the great botanical explorers of the age
who, before going on to greater things scientifically, conducted a collecting trip in the Pyrenees
in 1845-6. He recorded that 'My delicate health and retiring disposition have combined with my
love of botanical pursuits to render me fond of solitary study and I must confess that I feel a sort
of shrinking at the idea of engaging in the turmoil of active life.'. Collecting in the Pyrenees must
have been something of a hardship to him (and the last-mentioned sentiment is one that certain
of the more elderly Lions can sympathize with!).
One of the best-known and most prolific 20th century writers on mountaineering themes was
Showell Styles (1908 - 2005) the Welsh author, mountaineer and explorer who published over
160 books, many about climbing in various regions, including 'Backpacking in the Alps and the
Pyrenees'.
These fascinating figures are but a small selection and many others can be read about in such
publications as Rosemary Bailey's book referenced above, her latest book 'Love and War in the
Pyrenees' and 'Mountaineering in the Pyrenees – a Collection of Historical Climbing Articles'
published by the Wellhausen Press.
Sunday, April 14, 2013
THE LIONS OF THE PYRENEES NATURE GUIDE
CHAPTER 1: The Bearded vulture I
By Daniel Arenas (Ornithologist and Nature Correspondent)
Names
English: Bearded Vulture, Lammergeier
Scientific: Gypaetus barbatus
Spanish: Quebrantahuesos
Size
Length: 100-115 cm
Wingspan: 250-290 cm
Weight: 4,500-7,100g
Habitat
Lives only in mountainous areas. Searches for food mostly above tree line. Some
juveniles can leave mountains for some time.
Distribution
In Europe only in the Pyrenees, on Crete, Corsica and on the Balkan. Reintroduced
population in the Alps. Also lives in Turkey. Outside Europe eastwards till China and
Mongolia. In Africa it occurs in east and south Africa. Also occurs in south-west of
Arabian Peninsula.
Migration
Adults are sedentary and stay in their breeding territory. Juveniles can disperse over
long distances. Birds from the Pyrenees also move around and are sometimes seen
outside the Pyrenees, for example in the Picos de Europa mountains in northern Spain.
Breeding and Reproduction
Bearded Vultures first start breeding when 6-8 years old, which is among the highest
numbers for any raptor in the world . Bearded Vultures breed very early in the year.
In the Pyrenees, egg laying is between 11th of December and 12th of February. This
is very early, especially because temperatures at this times are normally very low and
nests are usually quite high in the mountains. But with this tactic, the Bearded Vulture
will find plenty of food when the chicks hatch and the snow melts as many dead
mammals like Chamois or Red Deer are buried under the snow during winter.
Bearded Vultures normally lay two eggs and incubate them for 52 - 58 days. The
second born chick is killed by it's older sibling. The second chick is an insurance in case
the first egg doesn't hatch.
The chick spends between 103 and 133 (medium 123) days in the nest.
By Daniel Arenas (Ornithologist and Nature Correspondent)
Names
English: Bearded Vulture, Lammergeier
Scientific: Gypaetus barbatus
Spanish: Quebrantahuesos
Size
Length: 100-115 cm
Wingspan: 250-290 cm
Weight: 4,500-7,100g
Habitat
Lives only in mountainous areas. Searches for food mostly above tree line. Some
juveniles can leave mountains for some time.
Distribution
In Europe only in the Pyrenees, on Crete, Corsica and on the Balkan. Reintroduced
population in the Alps. Also lives in Turkey. Outside Europe eastwards till China and
Mongolia. In Africa it occurs in east and south Africa. Also occurs in south-west of
Arabian Peninsula.
Migration
Adults are sedentary and stay in their breeding territory. Juveniles can disperse over
long distances. Birds from the Pyrenees also move around and are sometimes seen
outside the Pyrenees, for example in the Picos de Europa mountains in northern Spain.
Breeding and Reproduction
Bearded Vultures first start breeding when 6-8 years old, which is among the highest
numbers for any raptor in the world . Bearded Vultures breed very early in the year.
In the Pyrenees, egg laying is between 11th of December and 12th of February. This
is very early, especially because temperatures at this times are normally very low and
nests are usually quite high in the mountains. But with this tactic, the Bearded Vulture
will find plenty of food when the chicks hatch and the snow melts as many dead
mammals like Chamois or Red Deer are buried under the snow during winter.
Bearded Vultures normally lay two eggs and incubate them for 52 - 58 days. The
second born chick is killed by it's older sibling. The second chick is an insurance in case
the first egg doesn't hatch.
The chick spends between 103 and 133 (medium 123) days in the nest.
Saturday, April 6, 2013
9 Most Crucial Survival Tips provided by Alexander Turcan
1. The only person you can ultimately count on is yourself.
No one else can give you the mental will, physical stamina, and common sense that you're going to need to survive. So don't depend on others -
since you may be alone! Make your plans, pack your own survival kit, and if something unplanned happens when you are on your own in the wild,
be prepared to take care of your own needs as well as the needs of your teammates. This self-sufficient attitude is empowering in itself. Remember
that your life depends on what you do, not on the chance that a teammate will be there to do for you what you can't do for yourself.
2. Always leave behind detailed plans and timetables.
...with a trusted person. That way, if you're missing, a search party is likely to be sent out sooner than later if you fail to arrive back when expected.
3. Prepare for the contingencies.
-Becoming lost. It's not enough to rely on your good sense of direction. Always carry at least one compass, a map, and GPS. Don't move unless
you know where you are and where you are going. Many very experienced point men and navigators have become lost or disoriented in the wild.
Remember that the consequences of panic can be fatal. Do a good map study, reevaluate your situation, and allow the adrenaline that has flooded
your system and put you in fight or flight mode to subside.
-Darkness. With darkness we shift from relying primarily on seeing to relying primarily on hearing. This is an uncomfortable change for some
people.
-Being stranded. There are countless contingencies under which you could be stuck in the wilderness for an extended period of time. Anticipate that
this could happen and plan for ways to alert others and make your way to safety.
-Illness or injury. Treat any injuries --yours or your teammates. Self aid and buddy aid. Your health is most important for survival. Any time you go
into the wilderness there's always the possibility that you can become injured or ill. Practice and develop your own wilderness first-aid skills.
-Extreme weather. There is no such thing as bad weather, just different types of weather. Always be prepared. Snow, rain, or extreme heat or
cold can impact your ability to survive. Before heading out, make sure you have the proper clothing, water, and the ability to shelter yourself for
extended periods of time. Dress using layers to avoid overheating. Seek or build a shelter in extreme conditions.
4. Assess your situation as objectively as you can.
What needs to be done to assure your safety? Do you need to move to a safer area? Observe the area of your location. What are the hazards? Are
there adverse or friendly factors in the immediate area? What are the advantages? Is there water nearby? What can you take advantage of to help
you survive? Plan your next move carefully. Work out a plan in your head first. If you're satisfied with it, proceed. If not, give yourself time to come
up with a better alternative.
5. Take stock of your supplies and immediate needs.
A healthy person can survive for several weeks without food, and several days without water. So water is your most important requirement. Under
normal circumstances, the human body requires two quarts of water daily to maintain adequate hydration. Don't ration the water you have to last
for many days. Drink what you need. It's better to have water in your body than in a bottle or canteen. Conserve water by minimizing sweating by
wearing a hat, sitting in the shade, moving only at night, and so on.
6. Signal.
Always carry a whistle, mirror, and matches to start a fire. Smoke is visible from far away in the day.
7. Find food.
Food isn't an immediate concern unless you're reasonably sure that rescue is many days or weeks off. As a general rule, avoid plant life unless you
know for a fact that something is edible. If it walks, swims, flies, slithers, or crawls, it's probably safe to eat. ALL fur-bearing mammals and ALL
six-legged insects are safe to eat, and will provide you with nutrients and calories. DO NOT eat spiders. All birds are edible. Grubs found in rotten
logs are edible, as are almost all insects. Carry high-calorie energy food such as protein bars in your second and third line gear.
8. Make fire.
Fire works for signaling, staying warm and cooking. Fire requires three elements: Oxygen, fuel, and a source of heat. Is your fuel thin and dry
enough? Is your heat source hot enough to light the tinder? Is there enough oxygen reaching the point where the heat meets the fuel? Indentify the
problem and proceed.
9. Survival is the ability and desire to stay alive, sometimes alone and under adverse circumstances.
Understand and master each part of this definition.
-Ability. Be proficient at building shelter, starting a fire, signaling for help, and staying hydrated.
-Desire. Regardless of how bad the situation might be, never lose the will to survive and always maintain a positive attitude.
-Stay alive. Your ability to effectively deal with life-threatening medical situations is of the highest priority. Stay current with your emergency
medical skills.
-Under adverse conditions. The more you know about your environment ahead of time, the greater your advantage.
-Alone. Never count on the help of others. Be self proficient since you may end up alone.
-Until rescued. Be patient. It's your job to keep yourself and your teammates alive.
Canyoning report by Scott Fertig
Thursday 12 May
And so to canyoning. The early start meant there were a few bleary eyed Lions at Mass that
morning and on departure! The 1st group tackled the Mascun, a vast and wild canyon area quite
some distance away. The implications of its location – Antonio ruled breakfast out of the question
and ‘frog-marched’ us to our vehicle. Upon arrival many miles later, our guide Firke willingly and
happily took over herding the lions. Nearly 3 hours of hiking up and down mountains ensued. It was
a beautiful landscape, but we didn’t see much of it – our instructions were to “not gawk and walk at
the same time” but also to “always keep moving”. We were relieved to finally arrive and drop our
packs in the canyon floor.
Meanwhile, the 2nd groups relatively late start of 7.30am seemed positively lazy! Some winding
mountain roads were easily negotiated by Alastair ‘Seb Vettel’ Caisley taking driving responsibilities
and we were soon setting off on a 30 minute walk to our starting point.
As the canyoning started the famous Lions spirit came to the fore. Shouts of encouragement and
everyone looking to help at suitable moments were a real stand out from previous ‘non-Lions’
expeditions of this nature I have been on. We soon came to our first abseil, each of us laughing in
the face of danger (or at least chuckling with relief when our feet touched the pool we were landing
in).
Reaching a suitable venue for lunch we sat and ate. Within minutes of finishing we were up and ...
no, we were actually snoozing having a much welcome siesta. When in Rome ... In time we were
genuinely up and running and on the move again. Our marvellous guide Omar informed us about a
variety of local flowers as we progressed. As we went on, a pair of Griffin Vultures stood on a ledge
observing our progress for 800metres or so, as if hopeful of some Lion meat before the end of the
day. I am pleased to say no-one obliged! We finished with a scrambled climb up a steep and rocky
hill/face, soaked, tired but content and retired (briefly!) to a suitable bar.
No such sloth for the 1st group! After a brief lunch and the struggle to put on wet suits - Scott
reports that although he wore the same XXL suit he was given last year, it appears to have shrunk –
we headed for our first abseil. Firke indicated the direction to go (“down”) and helpfully provided
encouragement if needed with a not-so-gentle push from the edge. We all got the hang of it,
including the first timers. Lest we become too comfortable, clouds appeared and a thunderstorm
loomed just as we approached the narrowest part of the canyon. Although we were all breathing
hard, Firke decided for safety reasons we had to increase the pace. He was surprised by our protests
that we thought we were already moving fast. Plunging into a cave with no flashlights, barking our
shins and our buns, we faced the longest and scariest abseil of the day. No one was left behind
although choice Aragonese terms were issued by our guide and echoed through the cave system
for the native fauna. The rain came, we floated on, and eventually the sun came out as soon as we
emerged from the canyon walls.
We all congregated in the evening at Omar’s for a veritable feast with wonderful hosts and the
chance to re-live the days adventures.
Small things to think about, find… and carry in your backpack
o Water container (1.5-2 l)
o Swiss Army knife
o First aid pack (ziplocked; think it through; if in doubt, consult wife, friend, doctor or Google)
o Compass
o Whistle
o Small mirror
o Small Fresnel magnifying lens
o Plastic ziplock bags (2-5)
o Matches (ziplocked)
o Dynamo (squeeze/no-battery) lantern
o Wet wipes or other waterless solutions to keep hands clean
o Protein bars, dry fruits, nut mix, or other healthy snacks (for 3 days)
o Slim ground seat pad (e.g. A4 size piece of pvc floor mat)
o 1-2 pairs of old spare shoe laces
o Slim ropes / Kevlar thread
o Hacksaw blades (carbon steel; 1-2 pieces)
o Safety pins (small and large)
o Duct tape
o Moleskin adhesive patch
o Black ink pen, pencil and small notebook (waterproof or ziplocked)
o Water purification tablets
o Cotton pads and buds (ziplocked)
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